Madeira: The Island That Surprised Me

And Nearly Did Not Get Me At All

If you have not already read about how I nearly missed this trip entirely due to a passport situation that I can only describe as one of the most dramatic mornings of my life, go and read that post first. I will wait. This one picks up where that one left off, which is me finally, breathlessly, gratefully on the plane to Funchal and wondering what on earth was waiting for me on the other side.

What was waiting for me was one of the most genuinely beautiful places I have ever been. And I have been a lot of places.

Funchal: The Base That Has Everything

I stayed mainly in Funchal and I would recommend this to anyone visiting Madeira for the first time. The city sits in a natural amphitheatre of hills above the sea and it is one of those places that looks like someone designed it specifically to be photographed. It is charming in a way that does not feel performed, walkable in the way that European cities often are when they have not been completely overrun by tourism, and genuinely friendly in a way that I was not expecting but absolutely appreciated.

Monte Palace Tropical Garden: Go. Just Go.

If someone tells you to go to Monte Palace Tropical Gardens and you are in any way considering skipping it, please do not. It is genuinely extraordinary. Covering 70,000 square metres, the garden contains botanical species from all over the world alongside Oriental Gardens, a Laurissilva forest replica, a museum, and exotic fauna including peacocks, flamingos, and majestic koi in the lakes and ponds. Yes, real flamingos. I took a completely unreasonable number of photos and I regret nothing.

The Food: Two Very Different Experiences

We stumbled upon Marisqueira O Barqueiro without any plan whatsoever and it turned out to be one of those perfect travel moments that you cannot manufacture. The seafood platter that arrived at our table was extraordinary. The universe then decided that we were not leaving in a hurry by sending down some of the most intense rain I have ever experienced and trapping us inside. Honestly it was one of the funniest and most memorable parts of the trip. Stuck in a wonderful restaurant with great food while the heavens absolutely opened outside. There are worse fates. I also ate at Sol Ponte restaurant and here is my honest take: the food is fine. But what you are really there for is the view and the view delivers in a way that makes the meal feel secondary. Sit by the window and just look at where you are. Sometimes that is enough.

Cascata dos Anjos: The Waterfall on the Road

The Cascata dos Anjos, the Angels Waterfall, near Ponta do Sol, is one of the most genuinely unique things I experienced in Madeira. This striking waterfall tumbles directly over the old coastal highway, which is now closed to vehicles, so you are essentially standing on a road with a waterfall cascading over your head and the ocean behind you. It is completely free to visit and completely unmissable.

Pack for All Seasons and Mean It

Madeira's weather is notoriously changeable and I am not talking about a light shower that passes in ten minutes. One minute you are in warm sunshine, the next the kind of rain that makes you question every decision that led you to be outside. Pack layers. Pack waterproof options. Always. Would I go back? Without question.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is Madeira worth visiting?

Absolutely yes. Madeira offers extraordinary natural landscapes, excellent food, and a surprisingly varied range of experiences for a relatively small island.

Is Madeira safe for solo travellers?

In my experience it is one of the safest places I have visited. I felt completely comfortable throughout my trip.

What is the best thing to do in Madeira?

Monte Palace Tropical Gardens is genuinely unmissable. The Cascata dos Anjos waterfall near Ponta do Sol is one of the most unique natural sights I have ever seen. Funchal itself is worth exploring on foot.

How do you get to Madeira from the UK?

Direct flights operate from multiple UK airports to Funchal airport. Flight time is approximately three and a half hours.